You chose the fabric. Here is how to keep it beautiful: what to tell your tailor, how to wear it, when to send it to the dry cleaner instead of washing at home, and how to store it. For every fabric we sell, from polyester and cotton to viscose, bamboo, silk and their blends.
Care levelBamboo fabric
Delicate
The life of your fabric
Six moments that decide how long it lasts.
Most damage happens at two points: the tailor's table and the first wash. Get those right and the rest is easy.
1
Buy
Note the fabric type from the product page and keep this care guide handy.
2
Prepare
Pre-wash or steam to pre-shrink, as your fabric needs.
3
Stitch
Right needle, right seam, lining where needed.
4
Wear
Perfume first, jewellery careful, air after.
5
Clean
Dry clean or gentle cold wash, never hot.
6
Store
Clean, dry, breathable, away from light.
Six golden rules
If you remember nothing else.
1
Dry clean the first wash
For viscose, bamboo, georgette, satin, silk and anything printed in dark colours. The first wash releases the most dye and causes most shrinkage.
2
Care for the weakest fibre
In a blend, wash for the most delicate fibre and iron for the most heat-sensitive one.
3
Cold water, always
Heat shrinks natural fibres, kills stretch, sets stains and fades colour. 30°C or below for everything we sell.
4
Never wring
Roll the garment in a towel and press the water out. Wringing breaks wet viscose and bamboo and distorts sheer weaves.
5
Shade, not sun
Dry inside out in the shade. Sun fades prints and yellows whites within weeks.
6
Iron the reverse, low first
Start low and turn up only if needed. Use a cotton pressing cloth on anything shiny or printed.
Where your fabric sits on the care scale
Easy careGentle careDelicateDry clean only
Care by fabric
Which fabric did you buy?
Pick your fabric for the full care plan: why it behaves the way it does, what to tell your tailor, how to wear it, and how to clean, dry, iron and store it.
Polyester and poly crepes
Includes: Poly crepe, American crepe, moss crepe, French crepe, poly spun
Gentle care
Cold, gentle home wash. Dry clean anything lined or embellished.
Polyester is strong, colour-fast and hardly shrinks, so it is the easiest fabric in our range to live with. Digital prints on polyester are locked into the fibre and do not wash out. What damages it is heat: a hot iron or dryer can melt, shine or permanently crease it.
Before and during stitching
No pre-wash needed: polyester shrinks under 1%.
Use a sharp microtex needle, size 70/10 or 80/12, and polyester thread.
Crepes fray: finish every edge with an overlock or French seam.
Press seams with a warm iron (2 dots) through a cotton cloth, never directly.
While wearing
Polyester holds body odour and oil more than cotton; air the garment after every wear.
Let deodorant and perfume dry fully before dressing.
Keep away from candles, stoves and hot surfaces; polyester melts.
Cleaning
Hand wash or machine wash on a delicate cycle in cold water (up to 30°C), inside out.
Use a mild liquid detergent; powder can leave white marks on dark crepes.
Dry clean garments that are lined, embroidered or have sequins.
Dry, iron and store
DryLine dry in the shade. It dries in an hour or two; never tumble on high heat.
IronWarm iron (2 dots, about 150°C) on the reverse, with a pressing cloth on the face.
StoreHang or fold; it rarely creases. Keep oily stains away; polyester holds on to oil.
Sheer fabrics are made of very fine, highly twisted yarns. They look light because there is so little fabric there: seams slip, edges fray and the weave snags on jewellery and zips. Most damage happens in washing machines and at the tailor.
Before and during stitching
Cut in a single layer on tissue paper or a cotton sheet so it does not slide.
Use a fine 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle and a short stitch (1.5-2 mm).
French seams or narrow rolled hems; ask for a lining for kurtis and dresses.
Pin only inside the seam allowance; pins leave holes.
While wearing
Remove rings and bangles with sharp edges before handling the dupatta or pallu.
Keep away from velcro, zips and rough handbags; one snag pulls a whole line.
Do not hang heavy georgette garments for weeks; they stretch out of shape.
Cleaning
Dry clean is recommended, always for the first wash and for anything printed in dark colours.
If you must wash: cold water, mild liquid detergent, swish gently for 2-3 minutes, never rub.
Never machine wash or wring; the weave distorts and does not recover.
Dry, iron and store
DryDrip dry on a padded hanger in the shade; reshape while damp.
IronLow iron (1 dot) with a pressing cloth, or a garment steamer held a little away.
StoreFold with tissue paper between layers, or hang on padded hangers for short periods.
Satin shines because long yarns float on the surface. Those floats are exactly what makes it fragile: they snag, show water marks and take on shine marks from an iron.
Before and during stitching
Cut all pieces in the same direction; satin looks lighter or darker depending on direction.
Use a 70/10 microtex needle; pin only in the seam allowance.
French seams or overlock; satin frays fast.
Press on the matte side only, with a low iron and a cloth.
While wearing
Satin creases where you sit; hang it up as soon as you take it off.
Water droplets can leave rings; dab, do not rub.
Avoid rough bags, belts and bracelets.
Cleaning
Dry clean is recommended.
Spot-clean small marks with a cold damp cloth, dabbing from the outside in.
If washing is unavoidable: quick cold hand wash in a sink, no soaking.
Dry, iron and store
DryDrip dry on a padded hanger, away from sun.
IronLow iron (1-2 dots) on the reverse only. Never iron the shiny face.
StoreHang on padded hangers with space around it; satin crushes and snags.
Includes: Viscose rayon, viscose muslin, rayon prints, RFD viscose
Delicate
Dry clean recommended, always for the first wash.
Viscose is made from wood pulp. It is soft, breathable and drapes beautifully, but it loses up to half its strength when wet and can shrink 3-5% or more in water. Almost every viscose complaint (shrinking, bleeding, torn seams) starts with the first home wash.
Before and during stitching
Shrink it before cutting: steam press the full length of fabric, or, if the garment will be washed, soak and dry it once first.
Let the fabric rest flat for a few hours; viscose stretches when handled.
Stay-stitch necklines and armholes so they do not stretch out.
Use a 70/10 or 80/12 needle, overlock the edges, press with a medium iron.
While wearing
Viscose creases more than cotton; hang it up after wearing.
Sweat weakens and marks viscose; let it air dry before putting it away.
Avoid heavy bags on the shoulder; wet or damp viscose tears easily.
Cleaning
Dry clean the first wash. Many viscose prints release extra dye the first time.
After that: cold hand wash (under 30°C) with mild detergent, 5 minutes, no soaking.
Wash dark and bright viscose alone, every time.
Dry, iron and store
DryPress water out by rolling in a towel, then dry on a hanger in the shade. Never wring.
IronMedium iron (2 dots) on the reverse while slightly damp.
Most bamboo fabric is a viscose made from bamboo pulp, so it behaves like the softest, most delicate viscose: silky and cool, but weak when wet, prone to shrinking and quick to lose shape if it is pulled or hung wet. Bamboo knits stretch out if hung while wet.
Before and during stitching
Pre-shrink with steam, or one cold soak and flat dry if the garment will be washed.
Bamboo knits need a ballpoint or stretch needle (75/11) and a stretch stitch or overlock.
Do not stretch the fabric while sewing; let the machine feed it.
Use clear elastic or stay tape at shoulders so they keep their shape.
While wearing
Bamboo is very absorbent: change after heavy sweating and let it air.
It pills where it rubs (under the arms, on the hips). Avoid rough bags and belts.
Do not sit on damp surfaces; it marks.
Cleaning
Dry clean is recommended for woven bamboo garments, and always for the first wash.
Knits: cold hand wash with a gentle detergent, no fabric softener (it coats the fibre).
Never machine wash on a normal cycle and never tumble dry.
Dry, iron and store
DryDry flat on a towel, reshaping it to size. Never hang a wet bamboo knit.
IronCool iron (1 dot) on the reverse, or steam lightly.
Cotton is strong, breathable and easy to wash. Its two weak points are shrinkage (3-5% for untreated cotton, more for mulmul) and colour bleeding in dark or bright prints during the first few washes.
Before and during stitching
Always pre-wash cotton before cutting, the same way you will wash the garment.
Mulmul and voile are fine: use a 70/10 needle and French seams.
Poplin and cambric: universal 80/12 needle, any seam finish.
Press with a hot iron while slightly damp.
While wearing
Cotton creases easily; a quick press brings it back.
Sun fades bright cotton prints; do not dry or leave them in direct sun.
Fine mulmul tears at seams under strain; choose a relaxed fit.
Cleaning
Machine or hand wash at 30°C, inside out, with similar colours.
Soak dark and bright prints in cold salt water for 15 minutes before the first wash to reduce bleeding.
Dry clean is optional; it keeps dark prints brighter for longer.
Dry, iron and store
DryLine dry in the shade, inside out.
IronHot iron (3 dots), slightly damp; starch for a crisp finish if you like.
StoreStore fully dry; damp cotton mildews in the monsoon.
Cold, gentle home wash. Dry clean anything lined or embellished.
A blend combines two fibres to get the best of both: polyester adds strength and crease resistance, viscose adds softness, cotton adds breathability. The rule is simple: care for the most delicate fibre in the blend, and iron for the most heat-sensitive one.
Before and during stitching
Pre-wash blends that contain cotton, viscose or linen.
Use a universal 80/12 needle and polyester thread.
Iron at the temperature for the most heat-sensitive fibre (usually polyester: 2 dots).
While wearing
Blends with polyester pill where they rub; avoid rough bags.
Poly-viscose creases less than viscose but more than polyester.
Cleaning
Wash for the weakest fibre: a poly-viscose is washed like viscose, a poly-cotton like cotton but cooler.
Cold to 30°C, mild detergent, inside out.
Dry clean if more than half the blend is viscose or bamboo.
Dry, iron and store
DryLine dry in the shade.
IronWarm iron (2 dots) unless the label says otherwise.
Cold, gentle home wash. Dry clean anything lined or embellished.
Stretch comes from elastane (spandex, Lycra), a rubber-like fibre that heat, chlorine, sweat and fabric softener slowly destroy. Once it breaks, the garment bags and never recovers.
Before and during stitching
No pre-wash needed for poly lycra; pre-wash viscose lycra.
Use a stretch or ballpoint needle (75/11) and a zigzag or overlock stitch.
Do not pull the fabric while sewing; waves and popped seams follow.
Use a stretch thread or woolly nylon in the overlock for give.
While wearing
Rotate stretch garments; elastane needs a day to recover.
Rinse after the gym or swimming: sweat and chlorine kill elastane.
Cleaning
Cold hand wash or a delicate cycle in a mesh bag.
No bleach and no fabric softener.
Wash soon after wearing.
Dry, iron and store
DryDry flat or over a line in the shade. Never tumble dry.
IronCool iron (1 dot) on the reverse, or no ironing.
Cold, gentle home wash. Dry clean anything lined or embellished.
Linen is strong and gets softer with every wash, but it shrinks 3-4% the first time, creases deeply and its fibres crack if folded on the same line again and again.
Before and during stitching
Pre-wash before cutting.
Linen frays a lot: overlock or French seams.
Use an 80/12 or 90/14 needle; press with hot steam as you sew.
While wearing
Creases are normal; that relaxed look is part of linen.
Roll rather than fold for travel.
Cleaning
Gentle wash at 30-40°C with liquid detergent.
Dry clean for structured jackets and lined pieces.
Dry, iron and store
DryShake out and line dry; take it in while slightly damp.
IronHot iron (3 dots) with plenty of steam, while damp.
Includes: Pure silk, silk blends, tussar, chanderi silk
Dry clean only
Do not wash at home.
Silk is a protein fibre, like hair. Water, sweat, deodorant, sunlight and alkaline soaps damage it, and many silks bleed colour or develop water marks. Zari and handloom silks can shrink unevenly.
Before and during stitching
Do not wash silk before stitching. Ask the tailor to steam press it to relax it.
Use a fine 60/8 or 70/10 needle and silk or fine polyester thread.
French seams; cut on tissue paper.
Use dress shields in blouses; sweat stains on silk are often permanent.
While wearing
Put on perfume, hairspray and deodorant before dressing, and let them dry.
Change out of silk before cooking or eating messy food.
Air the garment on a hanger for a few hours before storing.
Cleaning
Dry clean only. Ask for "petrol wash" or gentle dry cleaning for zari and handloom silk.
Point out every stain to the dry cleaner and say what it is.
Never treat stains at home with soap, lemon or salt; they set stains and strip colour.
Dry, iron and store
DryNot applicable: leave it to the dry cleaner. After wearing, air it in the shade.
IronLow iron (1 dot) on the reverse with a cloth. Never press zari directly.
StoreWrap in soft cotton or muslin, never plastic. Refold every few months; keep neem leaves, not naphthalene, near zari.
Includes: Embroidered fabrics, sequin work, 3D lace, net
Dry clean only
Do not wash at home.
Embroidery, sequins and beads are hand or machine work on top of the base fabric. Water shrinks the base but not the threads, which puckers the work; machines and soaking loosen sequins. Hand-dyed bases can bleed.
Before and during stitching
Remove sequins and beads from the seam lines before sewing; needles break on them.
Line every embroidered garment; the back of the work is rough.
Hand-finish hems and edges where possible.
Press only from the reverse on a soft towel so the work is not flattened.
While wearing
Lift the dupatta when sitting so sequins do not catch.
Remove brooches and pins carefully.
Store and carry on a padded hanger with a breathable cover.
Cleaning
Dry clean only, including the first wash.
Ask the cleaner to check loose sequins before cleaning.
A small loose sequin is normal for hand work; it is not a fabric defect.
Dry, iron and store
DryAir on a hanger after each wear.
IronNever iron the embroidery; steam from the reverse only.
StoreFold with tissue paper between layers so sequins do not scratch; refold every few months.
Lining tip: the lining must match the shell's care. A washable cotton lining inside a dry-clean-only georgette is fine; a viscose lining in a washable cotton kurta will shrink and pull the hem. Pre-shrink the lining the same way as the main fabric.
Washing at home, the right way
For fabrics that can be washed: eight steps.
Check the label and this page
If it says dry clean, or the fabric is delicate and new, stop here and take it to the cleaner.
Sort and turn inside out
Wash darks and brights alone. Turn prints and crepes inside out; close zips and hooks.
Cold water, mild liquid detergent
Under 30°C. Dissolve the detergent fully before the garment goes in. No bleach.
Swish, do not scrub
Move it gently for 3-5 minutes. Delicates should never soak for longer.
Rinse in cold water
Rinse until the water runs clear, with no detergent left.
Roll in a towel
Lay it flat on a towel, roll it up and press. Never wring or twist.
Dry in the shade
Hangers for wovens, flat for knits and bamboo. Never in harsh direct sun.
Iron on the reverse
Lowest temperature that works, pressing cloth on the face, slightly damp for cotton and viscose.
Colour-safe rinse: for printed and dyed fabrics, add one tablespoon of plain white vinegar to the final rinse water (about 2 litres). It helps hold the colour, removes soap residue and leaves the fabric soft. Rinse once more with plain water if you dislike the smell.
At the dry cleaner
What to say when you hand it over.
1
Tell them the fabric
Say "viscose", "bamboo", "georgette", "silk" or "has zari". The solvent and pressing depend on it.
2
Point at every stain
Say what it is (oil, haldi, sweat) and how old. Unmarked stains often get set by pressing.
3
Ask for gentle cleaning
For silk, zari and embroidery, ask for "petrol wash" or gentle dry cleaning, and steam instead of press.
4
Check before you leave
Loose sequins, buttons and broken stitches: point them out so they are protected or fixed first.
5
Remove the plastic
Take the garment out of the dry cleaner's plastic at home. Plastic traps moisture and yellows fabric.
Stain first aid
The first five minutes matter most.
Blot, never rub. Use cold water, never hot. Work from the back of the fabric.
On silk, satin, viscose, bamboo, embroidered or zari pieces: only blot the stain and take it to a dry cleaner the same day. Home remedies (soap, lemon, salt) can strip colour and leave a ring that is worse than the stain. On washable fabrics, always test any remedy on a hidden seam first.
Haldi and curry
Act fast: scrape off, rinse from the back with cold water. On washable fabric, dab mild liquid detergent and dry in sunlight briefly; turmeric fades in sun. Delicates: blot and dry clean.
Oil, ghee and gravy
Sprinkle talcum powder or cornflour at once, leave 15 minutes, brush off. Then dab dishwash liquid on washable fabrics and rinse cold. Delicates: powder only, then dry clean.
Tea and coffee
Rinse from the back with cold water straight away. On cotton and polyester, dab detergent; never use hot water first, it sets the stain.
Lipstick and kajal
Blot (do not rub), dab a little dishwash liquid or makeup remover on washable fabrics, rinse cold. On silk and satin, leave it to the dry cleaner.
Sweat and deodorant marks
Soak washable fabrics in cold water with a spoon of white vinegar for 15 minutes, then wash. Silk: dry clean and use dress shields.
Mehndi
Rinse cold at once. Dab with lemon on cotton only (test first). Not for silk, viscose or prints.
Pan and kattha
Rinse with cold water, then dab with curd or a mild detergent on washable fabric. Professional cleaning for silk.
Ink
Dab with rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball from the back, onto a paper towel. Test on a hidden seam first.
Blood
Cold water only, never warm. Dab detergent and rinse. Hydrogen peroxide works on white cotton only.
Chewing gum and wax
Freeze with an ice cube, then scrape off gently. For wax, place paper over it and press with a warm iron.
Mud
Let it dry fully, brush off, then wash as normal.
Rust
Lemon and salt on white cotton only, then rinse. Never on coloured or delicate fabric.
Why did this happen?
The most common complaints, explained.
It shrank after the first wash
Usually because: Viscose, bamboo, mulmul and linen were washed warm or before being pre-shrunk.
Prevent it: Pre-shrink before cutting; dry clean the first wash; always cold water.
The colour ran
Usually because: First-wash dye release, washing with other clothes, or hot water.
Prevent it: Dry clean or salt-soak the first wash; wash darks alone; cold water.
Seams puckered or pulled apart
Usually because: Wrong needle or stitch, or a slippery fabric sewn with narrow seams.
Prevent it: Microtex needle, shorter stitch, French seams, lining.
Shiny marks after ironing
Usually because: Iron too hot, pressed on the face.
Prevent it: Reverse side, lower heat, pressing cloth. Melted marks are permanent.
Fuzz balls (pilling)
Usually because: Friction from bags, belts or washing machines.
Prevent it: Turn inside out, mesh bag, avoid rough bags. Use a fabric shaver.
Lost its stretch
Usually because: Heat, chlorine, softener or tumble drying.
Prevent it: Cold wash, dry flat, no softener.
Sequins or beads came loose
Usually because: Machine washing, rubbing or catching.
Prevent it: Dry clean only; padded hanger; get loose work re-stitched early.
Yellow patches on whites
Usually because: Sweat, deodorant, storage in plastic or sunlight.
Prevent it: Wash before storing; muslin wrap; dress shields.
Storage through the year
Indian weather is tough on fabric.
Monsoon
Humidity causes mildew and smells. Dry everything fully, keep silica gel or a camphor block (wrapped in cloth) in the cupboard, and air garments on dry days.
Summer
Sweat is the enemy: wash or air garments after each wear, use dress shields in silk and satin blouses, and never store worn clothes.
Winter
Woollens and velvet need breathable covers and moth protection: neem leaves, cedar or lavender sachets.
Wedding season
After the event, air the outfit for a day, dry clean it, then store it wrapped in muslin with tissue between folds. Refold every 3 months so zari does not crack.
Questions customers ask
Fabric care FAQ
Can I wash viscose fabric at home?
Yes, but carefully. Dry clean the first wash, because viscose releases most of its extra dye and does most of its shrinking then. After that, hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent for no more than 5 minutes, never wring, and dry on a hanger in the shade.
Why should the first wash be dry clean?
The first wash is when printed and dyed fabrics release loose dye and when viscose, bamboo and cotton shrink the most. Dry cleaning avoids both. After the first clean, many fabrics can be gently washed at home.
Is bamboo fabric delicate?
Yes. Most bamboo fabric is a type of viscose. It is very soft but weak when wet and shrinks easily. Dry clean woven bamboo garments, and hand wash bamboo knits in cold water and dry them flat.
How do I wash a polyester or crepe saree?
Polyester crepe is one of the easiest fabrics: cold hand wash or delicate machine cycle inside a mesh bag, mild liquid detergent, line dry in the shade, warm iron on the reverse. Dry clean if it has a heavy border, lining or embellishment.
Should I wash fabric before giving it to my tailor?
Pre-wash cotton, linen, viscose and bamboo if the garment will be washed at home, so it does not shrink after stitching. For dry-clean-only fabrics like silk and georgette, ask the tailor to steam press the fabric instead. Polyester does not need pre-washing.
Will digital printed fabric fade?
Digital prints on polyester are sublimated into the fibre and are very colour-fast. Prints on cotton and viscose can lose a little colour in the first wash; dry clean or salt-soak the first time and always wash in cold water, inside out, in the shade.
How do I iron georgette and chiffon?
Use the lowest setting (1 dot) and a cotton pressing cloth, or a garment steamer held a few centimetres away. Never press directly, and never leave the iron in one place.
Can satin be washed at home?
Dry cleaning is recommended. If you must, do a quick cold hand wash without soaking, drip dry on a padded hanger and iron only the matte back with a low iron.
What is petrol wash?
Petrol wash is the common Indian name for dry cleaning with a petroleum-based solvent. It is gentler than standard dry cleaning and is preferred for silk, zari and embroidered garments.
How do I store silk and zari outfits?
Clean first, then wrap in soft cotton or muslin, never plastic. Keep neem leaves nearby instead of naphthalene, and refold every few months so the fabric and zari do not crack along the folds.
How do I keep lycra and stretch garments stretchy?
Avoid heat. Wash cold, skip fabric softener and bleach, dry flat in the shade and never tumble dry.
What is the general rule for blended fabrics?
Care for the most delicate fibre in the blend, and iron at the temperature of the most heat-sensitive fibre. A poly-viscose is washed like viscose and ironed like polyester.
Please note: these are general care guidelines. Hand-dyed and printed colours can vary slightly from lot to lot, and slight movement of sequins or beads is natural in hand work, not a fabric defect. Many embroidered pieces are fragile and must be dry cleaned. We cannot be responsible for damage caused by washing or cleaning methods; when in doubt, choose a professional dry cleaner.
Still not sure?
Ask us before you wash.
Send us the fabric name or a photo of the label and we will tell you exactly how to care for it.
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