From than and panna to strike-off and spirality: the words suppliers use, explained.
- Bias
- The 45 degree diagonal of a woven fabric. Cutting on the bias gives stretch and drape.
- Blend
- A fabric with two or more fibres, like poly-cotton or poly-viscose, to combine their best qualities.
- Bio-wash
- An enzyme wash that removes surface fuzz, making cotton softer and less prone to pilling.
- Calendering
- Pressing fabric between heated rollers to make it smooth and shiny.
- Colour fastness
- How well a colour resists washing, rubbing, light and sweat. Rated 1-5; 4 or above is good.
- Count (Ne)
- The fineness of cotton yarn. 40s is finer than 20s; a higher count means finer, smoother fabric.
- Crocking
- Colour rubbing off onto other fabric or skin.
- Cut piece
- A short, leftover length sold cheaply. Fine for samples, not for repeat orders.
- Denier
- The weight in grams of 9,000 m of a filament yarn. Lower denier means finer yarn.
- Digital print
- Inkjet printing of designs straight from a file, with unlimited colours and no screens.
- Discharge print
- Bleaching colour out of dyed fabric in a pattern, then adding new colour.
- Devore (burnout)
- A chemical prints away one fibre in a blend, leaving a sheer pattern.
- Drape
- How a fabric falls and hangs.
- Dye lot
- One batch of dyed fabric. Shades can vary between lots.
- Elastane
- Stretch fibre (spandex, Lycra) added at 2-20% for stretch.
- EPI and PPI
- Ends per inch (warp) and picks per inch (weft). Together they show weave density.
- Filament vs spun
- Filament yarn is one long continuous strand (smooth, shiny); spun yarn is short fibres twisted (soft, matt).
- GI tag
- Geographical Indication: legal protection that a product is from a specific region, like Banarasi or Muga.
- Greige or kora
- Unfinished fabric straight from the loom, before bleaching, dyeing or printing.
- GSM
- Grams per square metre: the weight of the fabric.
- Hand-feel
- How the fabric feels to the touch: soft, crisp, dry, slippery.
- Lab dip
- A small dyed swatch sent for colour approval before bulk dyeing.
- Lot
- A batch of fabric from one production run.
- Lurex
- Metallic yarn woven or knitted into fabric for shimmer.
- Mercerised
- Cotton treated with caustic soda to make it stronger, shinier and better at taking dye.
- MOQ
- Minimum order quantity a supplier will produce per design or colour.
- Momme (mm)
- The weight measure for silk. 1 momme is about 4.3 GSM.
- Panna
- Hindi trade word for fabric width, for example 44 inch or 58 inch panna.
- Peach finish
- A light sanding that gives fabric a soft, peach-skin touch.
- Piece-dyed
- Fabric dyed after weaving.
- Pilling
- Small fuzz balls formed by friction.
- Placement print
- A print designed for a specific position on a garment, like a border or yoke.
- Reactive dye
- Dye that bonds chemically with cotton, viscose or linen for bright, fast colour.
- Repeat
- The size of one pattern unit before it repeats.
- RFD
- Ready For Dyeing: fabric prepared and cleaned so it can be dyed to custom shades.
- Sanforised
- Pre-shrunk by a mechanical process so it shrinks under 1-2% when washed.
- Selvedge
- The finished edge of a woven fabric that stops it fraying.
- Shade card
- A card of fabric swatches showing available colours.
- Silk Mark
- A quality label from the Silk Mark Organisation of India certifying pure silk.
- Slub
- A thick, irregular spot in yarn that gives texture, as in linen or raw silk.
- Spirality
- Twisting of knitted fabric after washing, making side seams move to the front.
- Strike-off
- A print sample on the actual fabric for approval before bulk printing.
- Sublimation
- Printing where dye turns to gas and enters polyester fibres. Bright, permanent, polyester only.
- Than
- Hindi trade word for a full roll or bolt of fabric.
- Warp
- The lengthwise yarns, held tight on the loom.
- Weft
- The crosswise yarns that weave over and under the warp.
- Width
- Fabric width, usually 44 inch (112 cm) or 58-60 inch (147-152 cm).
- Yarn-dyed
- Yarns dyed before weaving, used for checks, stripes and chambray.
- Zari
- Metallic thread used in Indian weaving and embroidery; originally gold or silver wrapped silk.